Konichiwa Tokyo, Sayonara Nihon

Arriving in Tokyo, one of the biggest and most populous cities in the world, the prospect of reuniting with my host family after 10 years was daunting to say the least. The excitement at showing Julia around my ‘old hood’ was mostly subdued by my nervousness at meeting up with my host family. My own feelings of inadequacy, especially my grasp (or lack thereof) of the language made for a myriad of emotions. Fortunately my ambivalence was soon quelled as I adopted my tour guide status; leading Julia around, communicating at every encounter and generally working hard to impress and impress upon my beloved the menagerie and sheer behemoth that is Tokyo. 

Quite quickly we realised that despite our gallant optimism, general disregard for reality and the generous week we had afforded ourselves in Tokyo, we simply wouldn’t be able to fit in all that we had planned. It brings me great pain to inform you that at Julia’s behest, Tokyo Disneyland was the first to be removed from our ‘must see’ list.

Drowning our sorrows at the Asahi HQ after realising we couldn't fit Disneyland in :(

The 'Golden Turd' - which is obviously supposed to be the froth of a beer! 

To capture Tokyo for those of you who haven’t visited I can only say that upon reflection it’s a places where 1000 people could visit and all have a different view of the city. That is to say, they could all happen upon or visit different areas, have varying experiences and potentially never visit the same place as the other 999 people. Unlike a city such asParis, or Melbourne for that matter, if one thousand people visited you could nearly stake your hat that most of those one thousand people would visit the Eiffel Tower or Federation Square.

The sprawling metropolis that is Tokyo

We stayed in a funky little apartment not too far from Shibuya, home of the world famous ’scramble’ crossing, but far enough away from the heart so as not to feel like we were being carried along involuntarily by the blistering pace and verve which has long been part of the Tokyo DNA.

Shibuya's famous 'scramble' crossing

Neons, advertising and consumerism - a quintessential Tokyo sight

In essence, our Tokyo stay revolved around two things: sight seeing and reuniting with my host family. For me, meeting up with the Nagaiwa family after 10 long years was quite incredible and very rewarding. Fortunately for all of us, it felt like we’d never left each other’s sides as the flow of conversation was only bettered by the flow of green tea. My host Mum had prepared us a feast and managed to remember my penchant for all things sweet. Sitting around our family dinner table again, where I’d been 10 years earlier - before school, after school, on weekends learning and absorbing as much about Japan as I could possibly fit in - for the first time in my life I had a sense that time itself is really quite arbitrary. A man-made notion of varying meaning and accord - dependent upon the beholder. For Julia, the witness to our reunion, it was an eye opening experience to see how a Japanese family lived, ate and slept. She did a great job of enduring the encounter, smile plastered to her face - face hurting.

What a feast! Thanks very much Okasan (Mum)! Delicious!  

We've all grown up! 

Okasan and Otosan both look so young and healthy!

As far as sightseeing went, a few of the highlights included visiting a cat cafe. Before you ask, no we didn’t eat our feline friends, it’s simply a cafe where you can play with the in-house cats. An apt name, now that the explanation is out of the way. For Julia, it was some reward after much anticipation. For me it was two for the price of one. I was able to visit a cat cafe and also sit and observe my beautiful girlfriend, child-like, rid herself of social norms and frolic around the cafe forcing herself upon our feline friends.

Spot the cats. And Julia if you can find her?

A cat!

For me, another highlight was Tsukiji -  the largest fish market in the world. Over 2000 tonnes of fish are auctioned off daily. With such raw numbers, and fish for that matter, comes a near overwhelming assault on your senses. Walking around Tsukiji at a saunter, in stark contrast to the brisk pace of the shop keepers around us, I couldn’t help but feel like a fly on the wall. For the most part I witnessed the whole thing through my camera lens, trying to capture the countless moments which left me awe stuck, it was a sight to behold and a smell to forget.

So much fish. Fish everywhere!

Incredibly sharp knives!

As a reward for the battering our senses endured we joined a long queue for one of the most famed and revered sushi restaurants at the market, ergo the world. The long wait and frosty conditions didn’t disappoint. We were squeezed in, elbow to elbow, careful not to dislodge the wall hangings. I managed to get my knees under the table exchanging polite glances with my neighbouring patrons. With the chef a short breath away, knife in hand, we began to order what would prove to be one of the best meals of the trip. Quite simply it was the best sushi I’ve ever eaten bar none. The speed at which the chefs cut down a piece of fish into something that, once rested on your plate looked like a piece of art, was truly astounding. Such skill no doubt acquired after much dedication and commitment. Although incredibly busy and working very hard, not to mention with a knife as sharp as a sword, the chef still managed to take our orders and partake in some good quality banter. Interested by our trip, what we had eaten in Hokkaido (a place revered for its seafood) and also curious as to why I was speaking Japanese to him. After the long queue to get into the place, we left feeling like we had been seated in the chefs own kitchen with all the time in the world.

Simply WOWZA!

Food nay, art yes - actually both

At my insistence we squeezed in one final temple stop at Asakusa temple. For me Asakusa is a place I have fond memories of. Fond memories of time spent alone, times of reflection and plenty of time exploring the labyrinthine area. With a plethora of small stalls and eateries, I figured at the very least Julia and I would enjoy one final adventure if not the imposing temple itself. After paying our respects and jostling through the crowd we were stopped by a very cute and eager to learn group of young Japanese students on an English language excursion. With excellent pronunciation and some courage they approached us and asked a variety of questions - all in English. Julia and I, quite impressed and taken aback by their sheer courage, happily obliged and were rewarded with a cute paper crane made by the them also. Buoyed by our experience we stridently advanced towards the exit. That is until we were stopped again by another cute group of school kids. Laughing at the coincidence we again played along and were again impressed by their courage and confidence. We left, another paper crane the richer, and strategically tried to duck and weave so we didn’t get caught again, three times would be pushing it. You guessed it, a third group of kids bailed us up, keen to go through the whole question and answer game again. After completing our third lot of interrogation and worried that we would never leave the temple grounds, we clandestinely snuck around the back of the stalls and managed to get ourselves to relative safety! 

Asakusa temple

We made it out alive and sane!

It’s fair to say that the entire trip itself was as much a learning experience for Julia as it was for me. We experienced Japan in full winter flight. Ate some of the best food of our lives. Shared some of my favourite and most important company in the world and left with eyes and souls full of memories and new experiences. As I write this I can’t help but wonder when, not if, I will return to the country which I consider my second home.

Uh Snow Part 2

In Part 1 of our winters adventure I left both you and I at the ski slopes pondering.

A place to ponder...

I'd also detailed the other part of my dream chasing shenanigans. To visit an outdoor onsen in the snow - ideally with snowing falling. So, after convincing Julia that nothing could be worse than the toils she faced on the slopes, she agreed to join me. As you would expect she had the normal reservations around sharing a public bathhouse. That is to share a bath, in a foreign country, with complete strangers, completely nude.

However, bags packed and under good authority from a local, we headed off out of town to the 'best' outdoor onsen in the region. Our trip involved multiple buses, and narrow, windy roads completely covered white with snow. The road wasn't the only thing that was white as my knuckles turned white while I held on as we headed up the treacherous white mountain roads. If you're having trouble coming to grips, pun intended, with my excessive use of the word 'white' then don't read this: our bus was also full of white haired elderly Japanese men and woman all eager onsen goers themselves. They seemed to be as excited about the onsen as they were about the presence of us; two, young, foreigners, one of whom spoke Japanese. 

Note the height of the snow compared to the bus stop. It was so cold waiting for the bus we literally walked in circles for 20 minutes just to stay warm.

For our toils and at their insistence they gave us some sweets and chaperoned us for the remainder of the journey until we all arrived at the onsen. Alighting the bus, the snow was falling heavily and the distraction of the frightening but hilarious journey vanished as I realised that if we could get inside in time, while it was still snowing, my dream might just come true.

After a windy and scary bus ride we made it!

After one failed attempt upon realising we'd forgotten towels, we bid each other farewell and I wished Julia good luck. I raced in, washed myself thoroughly as is customary and made my way to the snow covered bathing area. Stark naked, I can attest that walking outside in the snow with temperatures well below minus 10 literally hurts you all over. In sensitive areas you never imagined would see such harsh conditions. I must have looked like Golum from Lord Of The Rings as I scampered around the edge of the rocks until I entered. 

Either the door to freezing cold or to steaming hot

The sheer pain of the bitter cold only sped me along as I experienced the inevitable, truly superlative feeling of submerging yourself into the natural and piping hot waters of the baths. I sat there and for the second time in a week simply felt like I was living the dream. With the snow falling around me, and on me too, my wet hair literally started to freeze which was ironically analogous to the awesome memories which I knew would be frozen into my mind and ones I'll never forget. But beyond the scope of my poor literary exploits, all I can say is put a winter onsen experience on the top of your list. 

One of the most superlative experiences of my life.

After a successful week at the snow fields Julia and I headed to Sapporo for the world famous snow festival. Many of you will know 'Sapporo' simply as an excellent Japanese beer.  But the snow festival has arguably the same level of acclaim as their popular beer. The snow festival was another (thanks again Julia) event that I'd been keen to see ever since my exchange in Japan. I also knew that Julia would love it too and was keen for her to experience the hype of a Japanese festival. 

Julia rugged up and looking like a Polish Grandma.

Isn't she beautiful! 

My jeans are now ass-less. At least the next person had some denim to sit on.

Bizarly none of the cars had chains. 

The simply stunning Sapporo Beer Factory.

Upon entering the 'ice bar,' Julia asks, genuinely, whether it will be warm inside. No Julia, it'll be freezing cold. Literally.

Sculptors from all over the world converge on the city to build ice and snow sculptures well over 10 metres high. The city itself is picturesque with a park that runs down the middle of the city. The park and it's excellent location provide an stunning back drop for the festival. Walking the length of the park at both day and night, marvelling  at the extreme skill of the artists it really was an awe inspiring event. One which pictures will do more justice than my words. 

This shot was taken at roughly 8:21. 

Over 15m high. Wow!

The ice festival is held along the picturesque park that runs through the middle of the city.

If the ice sculptures weren't enough proof then there, it was bloody bloody freezing!

Conveniently Sapporo is renowned for its miso ramen or Japanese noodle soup with a miso base. To negate the cruel wintery conditions we warmed ourselves aplenty with numerous helpings of the delicious soup. 

A whole street filled with ramen shops. A great anti-dote to the cold.

The most satisfying ramen I've ever had.

Sapporo, and broadly Hokkaido, is quite highly regarded throughout Japan as a gastronomic destination. Specifically their seafood is sublime and amongst the best in all of Japan. Geographically Hokkaido is surrounded by seas which are much less pillaged than in other areas, improving the quality of the seafood which is caught.  

With that in mind Julia and I headed off to their seafood market and bravely ordered a sushi platter for breakfast. We'd stumbled upon a 'nook and cranny' type sushi restaurant where there was only seating for 3 customers. Conveniently Julia had read about the restaurant somewhere but initially had no intention to go. As we'd merely stumbled upon it, we couldn't pass up the opportunity to try some of their famed seafood in such a unique setting. 

As you can imagine with only 3 customers and the chef standing directly in front of you preparing your food, banter was as plentiful as the large portions of glistening, perfectly prepared sushi. The kick of freshly grated wasabi root was as welcoming as the piping hot green tea we were offered too. We left, budget intact, having consumed some of the freshest most delectably simple yet mouth watering sushi we will ever have the chance to eat. Japan had done it again.

This sushi restaurant only serves 3 customers at a time!

Chef preparing the sushi directly in front of you.

What's that Julia, your feet are getting cold? Here, try these feet warmers.

Why thank you Jay.

Hiroshima, Part 2

It's no secret that Jay and I get incredibly excited about food. Especially when we're travelling. Whether it's pizzas in Napoli, or momos in Kathmandu, we love sinking our teeth into the specialties of different cities. So when Jay's sister and brother-in-law, Erin and Rob, mentioned that we HAVE to try the okonomiyaki in Hiroshima, we were very happy to oblige.

Trying some of the local sweets, which are filled with various flavours such as chocolate, custard and red bean.

Prior to visiting Hiroshima, we knew okonomiyaki as Japanese savoury pancakes. We'd eaten them with various ingredients such as cabbage, spring onions and dried seaweed mixed into a batter, cooked, and topped with delicious sauces. As you can imagine, they're positively delicious so we were excited to try the ones in Hiroshima.  

Jay and I heard about a five storeyed building in Hiroshima with hundreds of stalls solely dedicated to this Japanese culinary delight - an okonomiyaki Mecca if you will - so we headed straight for there at our first opportunity.

At this building, each floor is made up of a number of square-shaped stalls, with a U-shaped bench around its perimeter where the customers sit (refer to image below). This bench also doubles up as a giant hotplate that the okonomiyaki are cooked on. As it was late in the afternoon when we arrived, most of the stalls had shut. However, the one in the back corner was still open, so we joined a few of the locals who were already there. The owner/chef was an older man, and to our delight we found out that he had been making okonomiyaki for 50 years. We figured we were in safe hands.

The layout of our okonomiyaki restaurant

Having had okonomiyaki previously, we were confident that it would be a quick and easy meal to prepare, which suited us just fine because we were very hungry by this stage. The owner's ample experience only added to our confidence that we would be in and out of there quickly. However it was clear that the chef had other ideas about the running of his restaurant when forty minutes in we were still no closer to eating our okonomiyaki. Instead, the chef was unnervingly unhurried in preparing our food, answering constant phone calls and fetching drinks for the other customers in between.

The long wait wasn't our only surprise. As the chef was preparing our okonomiyaki, it became clear that we wouldn't be served the batter-filled pancakes we'd previously been accustomed to. Instead, these ones had the ingredients piled on top of each other, with only a small amount of batter keeping it all together. We started to panic – we'd come all this way to try okonomiyaki in Hiroshima, and we'd visited a restaurant offering their own wacky version of it. We were failures.

Our very experienced chef

These were all for us (they weren't)

Almost an hour later, our okonomiyaki were finally ready to be eaten. Despite not being what we thought we'd be eating, the wait was worth it as they turned out to be bloody delicious. Eating them straight off the hotplate only added to the enjoyment of the whole experience. 

An Hiroshima style okonomiyaki. 

To our great pleasure and relief, we did find out that the style of okonomiyaki served to us was actually the signature style of Hiroshima (the other type are known as Osaka style ones), so we weren't failures after all. In fact, it turns out they were hands down, the best okonomiyaki we had our entire trip. High-five!

We also visited Miyajima, a mountainous island off the coast of Hiroshima. Miyajima has a torii gate that rather spectaularly looks like it's floating on water at high tide.

The Torii of Miyajima at Itsukishima Shrine

Itsukishima Shrine

Hi deer. Deers are everywhere in Miyajima.

Another activity recommended to us by Erin and Rob (thanks guys!!), was the hike up Mount Misen, the tallest mountain in Miyajima. We were  keen to give our bodies a bit of a work out after all of the food we'd been eating, so we made our way up one of the trails. 

One thing we've found in Japan is that the signs will often lead you 90% towards your intended destination. You generally need to work out the last 10% for yourself. This is quite ironic for a country that is so highly organised, particularly as this final 10% can be surprisingly difficult to work out, causing us to become lost a number of times. Hence on this occasion, we accidentally found ourselves at a beautifully tranquil Buddhist temple; complete with incense, chanting and rugged-up Buddha statues.

Re-orienting ourselves, we got back on track, and recommenced our climb upwards. As expected, it was a steep, and at times quite tiring, walk. Actually, it was very tiring - we were huffing and puffing and giving our bodies a proper, sweat inducing workout.

Back on track

Eventually we reached a rest area near the top of the summit, feeling thoroughly exhausted. However, it just so happened that another couple were taking a breather in the same area too - a Japanese husband and wife who were well into their seventies, if not eighties. The couple had just climbed the same arduous trail that we had, yet were a good half a century older than us. Surprisingly, they looked more refreshed than we did. After chatting to them briefly and asking for their advice on longevity, Jay translated that the couple lived on a simple but healthy Japanese diet and exercised regularly. That was it. They were  living proof that a healthy and wholesome lifestyle, such as their Japanese one, pays off. If there was ever motivation for adopting such a lifestyle they were it. So, after bidding this friendly couple sayonara, Jay and I conquered the last leg of our climb, completely inspired by the couple we'd just met.

We made it!

The not-too-shabby view from the top, with Hiroshima on the right handside

Spot the deer

Deciding that we'd worked hard enough on the way up, we opted for the less arduous way down via the cable lift. Needless to say it came with its own challenges: I was terrified during the ride.

Finally, I'll finish off by celebrating the absolute brilliance of modern Japanese toilets. Because they've truly been a source of enjoyment for me on this trip, and are quite simply the most superior, ichiban toilets I've ever used in my entire life. And to me, that's quite the achievement. So, without further ado, here is why Japanese toilets are incredible works of engineering to be marvelled at:

1. You can push a button that plays music when you're using the toilet. Perfect for those not wanting their business to be heard by others.
2. The bidet. It's surprisingly pleasant (warm water) and convenient (decreases wiping time). 
3. Warm toilet seats. Incredible. Especially during wintertime. It's one of those things that you don't realise you've been missing out on until you've experienced it. But once you do, you don't know how you'll cope without it ever again.

These points may not seem all that impressive in isolation, but they've honestly made a world of difference for me throughout this trip. Thus, I'm seriously considering having a Japanese toilet installed into our home if our landlord permits it.

Another sight to be marvelled - the stunning Hiroshima Castle