Sunday, March 2, 2014

Uh Snow Part 2

In Part 1 of our winters adventure I left both you and I at the ski slopes pondering.

A place to ponder...

I'd also detailed the other part of my dream chasing shenanigans. To visit an outdoor onsen in the snow - ideally with snowing falling. So, after convincing Julia that nothing could be worse than the toils she faced on the slopes, she agreed to join me. As you would expect she had the normal reservations around sharing a public bathhouse. That is to share a bath, in a foreign country, with complete strangers, completely nude.

However, bags packed and under good authority from a local, we headed off out of town to the 'best' outdoor onsen in the region. Our trip involved multiple buses, and narrow, windy roads completely covered white with snow. The road wasn't the only thing that was white as my knuckles turned white while I held on as we headed up the treacherous white mountain roads. If you're having trouble coming to grips, pun intended, with my excessive use of the word 'white' then don't read this: our bus was also full of white haired elderly Japanese men and woman all eager onsen goers themselves. They seemed to be as excited about the onsen as they were about the presence of us; two, young, foreigners, one of whom spoke Japanese. 


Note the height of the snow compared to the bus stop. It was so cold waiting for the bus we literally walked in circles for 20 minutes just to stay warm.


For our toils and at their insistence they gave us some sweets and chaperoned us for the remainder of the journey until we all arrived at the onsen. Alighting the bus, the snow was falling heavily and the distraction of the frightening but hilarious journey vanished as I realised that if we could get inside in time, while it was still snowing, my dream might just come true.


After a windy and scary bus ride we made it!

After one failed attempt upon realising we'd forgotten towels, we bid each other farewell and I wished Julia good luck. I raced in, washed myself thoroughly as is customary and made my way to the snow covered bathing area. Stark naked, I can attest that walking outside in the snow with temperatures well below minus 10 literally hurts you all over. In sensitive areas you never imagined would see such harsh conditions. I must have looked like Golum from Lord Of The Rings as I scampered around the edge of the rocks until I entered. 

Either the door to freezing cold or to steaming hot

The sheer pain of the bitter cold only sped me along as I experienced the inevitable, truly superlative feeling of submerging yourself into the natural and piping hot waters of the baths. I sat there and for the second time in a week simply felt like I was living the dream. With the snow falling around me, and on me too, my wet hair literally started to freeze which was ironically analogous to the awesome memories which I knew would be frozen into my mind and ones I'll never forget. But beyond the scope of my poor literary exploits, all I can say is put a winter onsen experience on the top of your list. 

One of the most superlative experiences of my life.

After a successful week at the snow fields Julia and I headed to Sapporo for the world famous snow festival. Many of you will know 'Sapporo' simply as an excellent Japanese beer.  But the snow festival has arguably the same level of acclaim as their popular beer. The snow festival was another (thanks again Julia) event that I'd been keen to see ever since my exchange in Japan. I also knew that Julia would love it too and was keen for her to experience the hype of a Japanese festival. 

Julia rugged up and looking like a Polish Grandma.

Isn't she beautiful! 
My jeans are now ass-less. At least the next person had some denim to sit on.

Bizarly none of the cars had chains. 

The simply stunning Sapporo Beer Factory.

Upon entering the 'ice bar,' Julia asks, genuinely, whether it will be warm inside. No Julia, it'll be freezing cold. Literally.
Sculptors from all over the world converge on the city to build ice and snow sculptures well over 10 metres high. The city itself is picturesque with a park that runs down the middle of the city. The park and it's excellent location provide an stunning back drop for the festival. Walking the length of the park at both day and night, marvelling  at the extreme skill of the artists it really was an awe inspiring event. One which pictures will do more justice than my words. 


This shot was taken at roughly 8:21. 

Over 15m high. Wow!




The ice festival is held along the picturesque park that runs through the middle of the city.


If the ice sculptures weren't enough proof then there, it was bloody bloody freezing!


Conveniently Sapporo is renowned for its miso ramen or Japanese noodle soup with a miso base. To negate the cruel wintery conditions we warmed ourselves aplenty with numerous helpings of the delicious soup. 


A whole street filled with ramen shops. A great anti-dote to the cold.

The most satisfying ramen I've ever had.

Sapporo, and broadly Hokkaido, is quite highly regarded throughout Japan as a gastronomic destination. Specifically their seafood is sublime and amongst the best in all of Japan. Geographically Hokkaido is surrounded by seas which are much less pillaged than in other areas, improving the quality of the seafood which is caught.  




With that in mind Julia and I headed off to their seafood market and bravely ordered a sushi platter for breakfast. We'd stumbled upon a 'nook and cranny' type sushi restaurant where there was only seating for 3 customers. Conveniently Julia had read about the restaurant somewhere but initially had no intention to go. As we'd merely stumbled upon it, we couldn't pass up the opportunity to try some of their famed seafood in such a unique setting. 

As you can imagine with only 3 customers and the chef standing directly in front of you preparing your food, banter was as plentiful as the large portions of glistening, perfectly prepared sushi. The kick of freshly grated wasabi root was as welcoming as the piping hot green tea we were offered too. We left, budget intact, having consumed some of the freshest most delectably simple yet mouth watering sushi we will ever have the chance to eat. Japan had done it again.


This sushi restaurant only serves 3 customers at a time!

Chef preparing the sushi directly in front of you.


What's that Julia, your feet are getting cold? Here, try these feet warmers.

Why thank you Jay.