Showing posts with label castle. Show all posts
Showing posts with label castle. Show all posts

Friday, February 21, 2014

Hiroshima, Part 2

It's no secret that Jay and I get incredibly excited about food. Especially when we're travelling. Whether it's pizzas in Napoli, or momos in Kathmandu, we love sinking our teeth into the specialties of different cities. So when Jay's sister and brother-in-law, Erin and Rob, mentioned that we HAVE to try the okonomiyaki in Hiroshima, we were very happy to oblige.

Trying some of the local sweets, which are filled with various flavours such as chocolate, custard and red bean.



Prior to visiting Hiroshima, we knew okonomiyaki as Japanese savoury pancakes. We'd eaten them with various ingredients such as cabbage, spring onions and dried seaweed mixed into a batter, cooked, and topped with delicious sauces. As you can imagine, they're positively delicious so we were excited to try the ones in Hiroshima.  

Jay and I heard about a five storeyed building in Hiroshima with hundreds of stalls solely dedicated to this Japanese culinary delight - an okonomiyaki Mecca if you will - so we headed straight for there at our first opportunity.

At this building, each floor is made up of a number of square-shaped stalls, with a U-shaped bench around its perimeter where the customers sit (refer to image below). This bench also doubles up as a giant hotplate that the okonomiyaki are cooked on. As it was late in the afternoon when we arrived, most of the stalls had shut. However, the one in the back corner was still open, so we joined a few of the locals who were already there. The owner/chef was an older man, and to our delight we found out that he had been making okonomiyaki for 50 years. We figured we were in safe hands.


The layout of our okonomiyaki restaurant

Having had okonomiyaki previously, we were confident that it would be a quick and easy meal to prepare, which suited us just fine because we were very hungry by this stage. The owner's ample experience only added to our confidence that we would be in and out of there quickly. However it was clear that the chef had other ideas about the running of his restaurant when forty minutes in we were still no closer to eating our okonomiyaki. Instead, the chef was unnervingly unhurried in preparing our food, answering constant phone calls and fetching drinks for the other customers in between.

The long wait wasn't our only surprise. As the chef was preparing our okonomiyaki, it became clear that we wouldn't be served the batter-filled pancakes we'd previously been accustomed to. Instead, these ones had the ingredients piled on top of each other, with only a small amount of batter keeping it all together. We started to panic – we'd come all this way to try okonomiyaki in Hiroshima, and we'd visited a restaurant offering their own wacky version of it. We were failures.


Our very experienced chef

These were all for us (they weren't)

Almost an hour later, our okonomiyaki were finally ready to be eaten. Despite not being what we thought we'd be eating, the wait was worth it as they turned out to be bloody delicious. Eating them straight off the hotplate only added to the enjoyment of the whole experience. 


An Hiroshima style okonomiyaki


To our great pleasure and relief, we did find out that the style of okonomiyaki served to us was actually the signature style of Hiroshima (the other type are known as Osaka style ones), so we weren't failures after all. In fact, it turns out they were hands down, the best okonomiyaki we had our entire trip. High-five!

We also visited Miyajima, a mountainous island off the coast of Hiroshima. Miyajima has a torii gate that rather spectaularly looks like it's floating on water at high tide.



The Torii of Miyajima at Itsukishima Shrine

Itsukishima Shrine


Hi deer. Deers are everywhere in Miyajima.

Another activity recommended to us by Erin and Rob (thanks guys!!), was the hike up Mount Misen, the tallest mountain in Miyajima. We were  keen to give our bodies a bit of a work out after all of the food we'd been eating, so we made our way up one of the trails. 

One thing we've found in Japan is that the signs will often lead you 90% towards your intended destination. You generally need to work out the last 10% for yourself. This is quite ironic for a country that is so highly organised, particularly as this final 10% can be surprisingly difficult to work out, causing us to become lost a number of times. Hence on this occasion, we accidentally found ourselves at a beautifully tranquil Buddhist temple; complete with incense, chanting and rugged-up Buddha statues.





Re-orienting ourselves, we got back on track, and recommenced our climb upwards. As expected, it was a steep, and at times quite tiring, walk. Actually, it was very tiring - we were huffing and puffing and giving our bodies a proper, sweat inducing workout.

Back on track

Eventually we reached a rest area near the top of the summit, feeling thoroughly exhausted. However, it just so happened that another couple were taking a breather in the same area too - a Japanese husband and wife who were well into their seventies, if not eighties. The couple had just climbed the same arduous trail that we had, yet were a good half a century older than us. Surprisingly, they looked more refreshed than we did. After chatting to them briefly and asking for their advice on longevity, Jay translated that the couple lived on a simple but healthy Japanese diet and exercised regularly. That was it. They were  living proof that a healthy and wholesome lifestyle, such as their Japanese one, pays off. If there was ever motivation for adopting such a lifestyle they were it. So, after bidding this friendly couple sayonara, Jay and I conquered the last leg of our climb, completely inspired by the couple we'd just met.


We made it!

The not-too-shabby view from the top, with Hiroshima on the right handside

Spot the deer

Deciding that we'd worked hard enough on the way up, we opted for the less arduous way down via the cable lift. Needless to say it came with its own challenges: I was terrified during the ride.

Finally, I'll finish off by celebrating the absolute brilliance of modern Japanese toilets. Because they've truly been a source of enjoyment for me on this trip, and are quite simply the most superior, ichiban toilets I've ever used in my entire life. And to me, that's quite the achievement. So, without further ado, here is why Japanese toilets are incredible works of engineering to be marvelled at:

  1. You can push a button that plays music when you're using the toilet. Perfect for those not wanting their business to be heard by others.
  2. The bidet. It's surprisingly pleasant (warm water) and convenient (decreases wiping time). 
  3. Warm toilet seats. Incredible. Especially during wintertime. It's one of those things that you don't realise you've been missing out on until you've experienced it. But once you do, you don't know how you'll cope without it ever again.

These points may not seem all that impressive in isolation, but they've honestly made a world of difference for me throughout this trip. Thus, I'm seriously considering having a Japanese toilet installed into our home if our landlord permits it.


Another sight to be marvelled - the stunning Hiroshima Castle





Tuesday, February 4, 2014

Oooh, ahh, Osaka

We took a day trip to Osaka.

Jay was especially excited because it meant that we'd be travelling on the Shinkansen (bullet train). He was almost as excited as when he bought donuts from his all-time favourite Japanese donut chain, Mister Donuts, but not quite.

Reunited with Mister Donuts after a 10 year hiatus - get in my belly!

The Shinkansen, which can travel up to 320 km/hr, got us from Kyoto to Osaka in....wait for it....15 minutes. That's a distance of 47km. Or roughly from Melbourne to Avalon airport. I won't bother working out the math of that, but suffice to say that's mighty impressive. Especially since earlier that day it had taken us 45 minutes to travel 7 km from our accommodation to Kyoto train station*.

Faster than a speeding bullet....it's the Shinkansen...whoosh

Osaka itself was a buzzing metropolis of a city. Jay had loosely described it as Melbourne-esque in character - trendy and quirky with a bit of an edge. And to some extent it was. Only to me it was less laid back and chilled and more like a hyperactive teenager; loud and eccentric, but only because it's excited about life and is ready to test its limits. There was all sorts of yelling urging people to eat at various restaurants; Osakians, young and old, were wearing the most bizarre combinations of outfits; and giant billboards with novelty sized objects surrounded us. You really felt like your senses were being bombarded. Or perhaps it all seemed more chaotic than what it actually was compared to the relative order and serenity we'd experienced in Kyoto. Regardless, we threw ourselves into the excitement of Osaka, and headed straight for Dotonbori, one of the city's main food strips.


The acclaimed food strip that is Dotonbori.

One of Osaka's claims to fame are tako-yaki, balls of batter filled most commonly with seafood. Being an Osakan specialty, we had to try them.

Tako-yaki in the making

In order for you to gauge how they tasted, I'll provide you with the following description. Imagine a golden-brown, delectable looking ball. It's so delectable looking that you decide to put the whole thing into your mouth in one go. Excited to taste it, you bite into the ball vehemently, forgetting that it's actually steaming hot. A gush of scorching, liquid, fishy-tasting goodness/wickedness explodes into your mouth, burning the inside of your oral cavity in the process. You practice more caution with subsequent bites, which are pretty much a repeat of the previous sensations, only there's less mouth-scalding involved. If that all sounds appetising to you, then you'll be in for a treat with tako-yaki. If not, then perhaps you should skip the experience**.

Me, prior to trying tako-yaki. Unfortunately I wasn't so smiley after tasting them.

But Osaka wasn't all about loud noises and outrageous food. There were more tranquil areas we visited too, including the Sumiyoshi Taisha shrine and Osaka Castle. The significance of this shrine was that its architectural style preceded the influence of Chinese Buddhist styles seen in other parts of the country. The shrine also dates back to the 3rd century. 


The picturesque bridge leading up to the shrine


An example of 3rd century architecture

Osaka Castle in particular was breathtaking. With its surrounding moat, luminescent white colour and gold trimmings, it glowed with extravagance against the wintry grey setting. I felt like I'd stepped onto the set of a fairytale.


Isn't she beautiful?




We finished our day by having dinner with Jay's former host dad, otosan (father). Otosan, wanting to treat us on this special occasion, took us to a restaurant and ordered very generously, including a large assortment of sashimi***In Japan, sashimi is not a thin piece of fish served on top of a portion of rice. Instead, it is expertly cut slices of raw fish, taken from the best parts of the fish, served to you on a plate, without the rice. The pieces are so delicate that they almost melt in your mouth.

It was a terrific night of catching up on the past ten years and enjoying some great food and drink together. It was really lovely meeting otosan too as I'd heard lots about him and his family from stories Jay told me previously. A fantastic end to our day in Osaka!

Otosan and us at the restaurant

* We now have a bit of a running joke every time something takes a lot longer than expected to happen (i.e. when we are lost and can't find a train station/shop/restaurant). We now say 'We could've been in Osaka by now.' It's quite funny.

** I should reiterate that the tako-yaki we tried were fish ones. Meat ones could be better.

*** Although strict vegetarians at home, in Japan we've been eating fish - it's a surprisingly difficult country to be strictly vegetarian in

Saturday, March 2, 2013

Invisible hashtags - our last hoorah!


The Netherlands

Over 24 hour bus trip. Steve. Melle. Crazy long dutch words. Herring. Beach. Kite-surfing. The best hot chocolates. Vla. Stroopwafles. Febo. Wind mills. Bikes – everywhere. Local carnival. Delicious Belgium fries. Canals. Anne Frank’s House. Getting lost in all the narrow alleyways. Red lights. Windows. Provocative gestures. Cafes. Coffee houses. The smell of weed (but only in a few streets). Aimless wanderers.

Famous Dutch herring and pickles - yum!




FEBO!






THE BEST FRIES IN EUROPE/THE WORLD!





Germany
Munich. Another long bus trip. Beer halles. Long wooden tables with Germans singing and chanting. Pretzels. Maß (mass) – 1 litre beers. Schnapps post maß. Tent city with dirty blankets. The beginning of scabies (unbeknowst to us). Bavaria. Fairytale castles. Lush, green, rolling hills. Picture-perfect, pristine towns. Berlin. Graffiti. East and West. Brandenburg Gate. Berlin Wall. Checkpoint Charlie. Fake passport control areas. Scrumptious falafel wraps. Museums galore. Brit. Outrageous reggae night club. Grunge.

The super packed beer gardens of Munich - and it's not even Oktoberfest yet!

Just a standard glass of beer in Munich - all 1 litre of it!


Prost!


Minutes later all members of a bucks party stood up on the benches, lifted the heavy wooden table they were sitting at up, and proceeded to chant and sing merry German songs!




Neuschwanstein Castle - as close to a real-life fairy tale castle as you'll ever get!


The stunning Bavarian countryside!



The Holocaust memorial in Berlin











Scotland

26 hours of buses - our longest bus trip EVER. Bleugh. Edinburgh. Magical, gothic buildings. Cobbled stone streets. Siobhan. Arthur’s Seat. Fringe festival. Comedy shows. Comedians having mental breakdowns on stage. Football. Fans throwing gum onto opposition players. Ben Nevis. Hiking to the highest point in the UK. Almost being blown away at the highest point of the UK. Glasgow. Disheveled. 1 pound umbrella. Rain. 1 pound umbrella breaking within seconds of opening it. Getting wet. Laughing.





Edinburgh derby! Cmon you Hibs!




At the top of Arthur's seat with Siobhan






On top of Ben Nevis - the highest point in the UK!


Looking mighty fine at the top of Ben Nevis whilst desperately hoping we don't blow away!




This umbrella lasted literally less than 30 seconds! Hah!




Northern Ireland & Ireland

Belfast. Charming. British Patriotism. Commemorative murals. Giant's Causeway. Dublin. Guinness. Guinness. Guinness. Crowded Irish pubs. Folk songs. Titanic. No the actual Titanic, that sunk. No signs of leprechauns though.







At the Giant's causeway


The stunning Irish coastline


Phone booth!!!






Mario? Luigi? 




England - we have to break this one up because there’s far too much worth mentioning.


Manchester

Manchester United. Old Trafford. Yuck. Whatawasteofmymoney. Scum.




Vom.




Liverpool

FOOTBALL. This is Anfield. The Kop. Football fanatics. Football tattoos everywhere. Life long dream. Tick. The best part of the trip? Maybe. Probably. Beatles. Beatles festival. Beatles tours. Dancing all night in the Cavern Club. Matthew Street Festival. Music galore. Chavs. NHS. Scabies revealed.









On the Beatles tour - the actual best part of the trip!





Bed bugs. NHS. Priceless. 


'You'll never walk alone!'




Oxford
University town. Prestige. Bodleian library. Over 11 million items. Secret, underground tunnels. Gothic buildings used in Harry Potter films. C.S.Lewis. Narnia inspirations. Lewis Carroll. Alice in Wonderland. Literary bliss.




The Bodleian library - absolutely incredible. Established in 1602 - wow!




This is the doorway which gave C.S. Lewis inspiration to write The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe - check out the lion in the middle of the door! 


This was the setting of the infirmary in the first Harry Potter movie - awesome!






London
God save the Queen. Famous monuments – everywhere. Double decker buses. Shakespeare. Vanessa. Hayley. Kate. West End. Wicked. Tori. Hip hop Karaoke. Damian Hirst exhibition. Formaldehyde cow. Amy. Charlie. Cable car over the Thames. Sushi train. Dinner party. Surprise guests. Sarah. Dave. Home time!



St Paul's Cathedral


Westminster Abbey




Ben!
Our best dinner date of the trip!


Hey girl, hey - with the lovely Tori




Popping our sushi train virginity - a fitting end to our last night of the trip!

Goodness me! That's it! What an incredibly epic trip that was. Wow. After 190 days of travelling and having visited 21 countries, we just feel so so fortunate to have gone on this journey together and to have seen and done everything we did (except for the being stuck with a druggy in Palermo, that was not great). To everyone who gave us delicious food, a bed to sleep in, or just some old-fashioned good company - grazie mille, merci beaucoup, djenkuje & danke. And to everyone who had a cheeky peek at our blog, thank you too! This trip was truly an experience of a lifetime, and we just cannot wait to see where our next adventures will take us!



The last leg of our trip, pretty much all done on buses (except between Dublin and Manchester). Definitely not in a hurry to do that again!