Wwoof!

Picture this: a remote Spanish goat farm, surrounded by arid, olive-lined hills. No electricity or hot water, thus making refrigeration of dairy products produced at the farm impossible. This doesn't phase us though, because we're looking forward to having an experience that will challenge and get us out of our comfort zones. However, when you add in all of the unbelievable dysfunctional, unhygienic and flat-out what-on-earth-is-going-on-here moments we experienced, you get one of the most bizarre weeks we've ever had!

The farm!

Before going on, I'll explain a bit about the concept of Wwoofing. Basically, it's an organisation where volunteers offer their labour in exchange for food and accomodation for the duration of their stay at a Wwoofing farm. On average, Wwoofers will work for 5-6 hours daily at the discretion of the farm owner.

Before getting to our farm, we had a feeling things might be challenging given our farm owner, Rafa, didn't speak English. But we were excited to give it a go, learn how goat's cheese is made, and pick up a bit of Spanish.

Within the first few hours of arriving at the farm, we knew we were in for a strange week. The fact that empty liquor bottles were strewn all over the property should have rung alarm bells, but we turned a blind eye in the name of optimism. Pierre, another Wwoofer who had been at the farm for 9 months, had recently 'adopted' a pet baby hawk called Pippa. We became very well acquainted with Pippa over lunch. Plopped in the middle of the already grimy lunch table, Pippa would flutter and hop among all the food which was meant for us to eat. Not to mention that she'd also sporadically poo, while on top of the table of course, with her projectile faeces always missing our plates by centimetres. Not quite how we were expecting to spend our first meal at the farm. That first day ended with us being shown to our bedroom and being told that it was most likely flea ridden, due to a recent infestation at the farm. I can confirm that indeed this was the case, with flea-bite scars still present on my legs as proof of this fact.

Our first real 'work' day at the farm was marred by a very avoidable issue. At around lunchtime, and consequently the hottest part of the day, it was declared that we would go and visit the goats. As we still hadn't seen them and we were supposedly at a goat farm, we were very excited about this. Thinking we were off for a meet and greet, we obviously didn't feel the need to fetch water bottles, hats and sun protection in general. Might I say neither were we told to bring any of the aforementioned essentials along. Much to our surprise, on arrival we were told that along with another wwoofer, we would be taking the goats for a walk, herding them along a 5 km look around the property. Not that hard I hear you say? Well in baking 37 degree heat, without water, hats and suncreen the task is very daunting indeed.

As it turned out, this wasn't a 5km saunter around the property. Goat herding is tough work, keeping your eyes on around 80 goats, making sure they don’t stray too far from the pack and giving them sufficient time grazing in certain fields. After roughly an hour and a half of trudging through the heat, again with no water or sun protection, we arrived at a dense, shrub ridden forest. With literally nothing resembling a path, immediately it was obvious that keeping track of the entire herd would prove testing. Pretty quickly Jay and I were distracted with rescuing a mother and baby goat who couldn’t yet grasp the idea of grazing amongst the herd. Whilst Jay and I stuck together the other WWOOFER continued with the rest of the herd and it quickly dawned on us that whilst we were preoccupied with these two goats we were getting further and further away from the other wwoofer. Concerned Jay started yelling out and whistling in order to maintain some kind of contact. The reply we got was deafening silence. Shit.

Still trying to get these two errant goats on track but now well and truly lost we reluctantly decided that our safe return was more important than the goats. So we left them behind and began to try an locate the rest of the herd and other wwoofer. Quite simply we were lost. Very lost. By this stage we had been walking in the scorching sun for nearly 3 hours. We were dehydrated beyond anything either of us have experienced and both starting to get very scared. After finding a dried up stream we decided to follow that. Reaching the end and now in an open valley, I remained whilst Jay trekked up one of the nearby knolls to try and locate the farmhouse. Jay returned with the bad news – we were seriously lost! Both conscious of increasing levels of anxiety, we tried against our will to 'keep it together.' Finally with no other choice we decided to back track along the dried up stream. We reached a fence line, followed this and found our way onto a road!!!!!!

Sighting a nearby house, we entered the property in the hope of finding water. We were literally desperate. Our mouths sticking together with each word spoken, throats beginning to dry up too. Racing to the nearest tap, to our horror we discovered that the water wasn’t running. The mains had been turned off. Devastated and not taking no for an answer we found ourselves lying underneath the tap, mouths wide open, while the other person shook the hose above the other persons mouth, trying to milk any water that remained in the hose. Even though we both only managed to consume two or so drops of stale water, it was a mental victory and we felt prepared for our walk back to the farm - which turned out to be 15 minutes away. We slowly made our way back, incredulous at the situation we had found ourselves in. Along the way we managed to stop a car who gave us a bottle of warm, it's-been-in-the-boot-of-the-car-for-too-long, water. The pure and utter joy we experienced whilst sculling water which we otherwise wouldn't dare drink made us question whether the whole saga was worth it simply for that very moment.

Finally arriving back at the farm, a good four or five hours since we'd departed, nobody blinked an eye as we entered the room and found everyone sitting around the table smoking weed with not a care in the world (actually, now that I've mentioned it, I may as well add that the rest of the wwoofers smoked weed from 8am every morning to late at night, all-day every day for our entire stay. Occasionally they would crack open a bottle of wine over breakfast too). Flabbergasted but so exhausted we made our way up to our room. From then on we shepherded the goats alone, early in the morning, with lots of water on us and in a field close to their barn – no more crazy shrub routes for us!

Where's Julia??

You can call me Shepherd Jay

Despite trying to stay positive, our week unfortunately did not improve. If anything it became more and more bizarre. At one point we ran out of toilet paper, and when Jay asked whether there was any more he was met with a grunt and shrug of the shoulders as a reply. Luckily for Jay and I, we had bought a jumbo-pack of tissues with us, so we were all set. Meanwhile, the rest of the wwoofers resorted to using waxy baking paper instead, which gave a whole new meaning to the saying 'smoother than a baby's bottom'.

Most annoyingly of all was the full-to-the-brim bucket of dirty toilet paper which sat in front of the toilet. Since we weren't supposed to flush any toilet paper, the bucket was used to dispose of it instead. Not only was this fact disgusting enough in itself, but when you consider that this said bucket was full on the first day we got there, and not emptied the entire duration of our stay, each visit to the 'throne' was anything but relieving. Especially given that 6 people were staying at the property at once. And did I mention that there was no button to flush the toilet? Instead, we had to dip our fingers into the slimy water of the lidless cistern and manually pull the lever each time we had to flush – not an ideal way to finish off each toilet visit!

Gross, mouldy cheese!

Less mouldy, though the cat has has nibbled some!

Goat's cheese in its liquid infancy

There were some perks to the week though. We did enjoy herding the goats every day for a couple of hours, picking up goat-shepherd sayings such as 'Ale!', 'Eh!', 'Gah!' and 'Vamos!'. We got to help make some goats cheese as well, scooping handfuls of fermented goats milk into containers that would compress the liquidy mass into solid cheese overnight. Occasionally we visited the chickens to see if there were any eggs to collect from their coop, and we harvested a bucket-load (or 5) of garlic earlier in the week.

After a few days, it dawned on us that no one was willing to do any work on the farm, and were instead treating it as some sort of spiritual retreat. Our purpose for being there was to work, so in its absence, and along with a few other contributing factors which I won't bore you with at the moment, we decided that one week was enough and we said adios to the farm.

I will finish off with highlight of the week, which funnily enough didn't even occur at the farm; watching Spain skilfully obliterate Italy in the final of the European Championship. We could not believe our luck when we discovered we would be in Spain for this momentous match, with Jay bursting with excitement at this fact. Sitting down at a dingy, local country pub, with local kids gawking at us and asking us questions in Spanish which we couldn't answer, it was such an exciting atmosphere to be a part of. We were even served free tapas with each beer, making this night even more quintessentially Andalucian. The chaos that erupted when Spain won was electric, with people hooning around in their cars waving Spanish flags and drunken crowds of people chanting until the early hours of the morning. What topped the night off was when an excited Spaniard insisted on swapping  T-shirts with an equally ecstatic Jay!!! Viva Espana!

Both very excited, both very drunk, swapping shirts - priceless!