Konichiwa Tokyo, Sayonara Nihon

Arriving in Tokyo, one of the biggest and most populous cities in the world, the prospect of reuniting with my host family after 10 years was daunting to say the least. The excitement at showing Julia around my ‘old hood’ was mostly subdued by my nervousness at meeting up with my host family. My own feelings of inadequacy, especially my grasp (or lack thereof) of the language made for a myriad of emotions. Fortunately my ambivalence was soon quelled as I adopted my tour guide status; leading Julia around, communicating at every encounter and generally working hard to impress and impress upon my beloved the menagerie and sheer behemoth that is Tokyo. 

Quite quickly we realised that despite our gallant optimism, general disregard for reality and the generous week we had afforded ourselves in Tokyo, we simply wouldn’t be able to fit in all that we had planned. It brings me great pain to inform you that at Julia’s behest, Tokyo Disneyland was the first to be removed from our ‘must see’ list.

Drowning our sorrows at the Asahi HQ after realising we couldn't fit Disneyland in :(

The 'Golden Turd' - which is obviously supposed to be the froth of a beer! 

To capture Tokyo for those of you who haven’t visited I can only say that upon reflection it’s a places where 1000 people could visit and all have a different view of the city. That is to say, they could all happen upon or visit different areas, have varying experiences and potentially never visit the same place as the other 999 people. Unlike a city such asParis, or Melbourne for that matter, if one thousand people visited you could nearly stake your hat that most of those one thousand people would visit the Eiffel Tower or Federation Square.

The sprawling metropolis that is Tokyo

We stayed in a funky little apartment not too far from Shibuya, home of the world famous ’scramble’ crossing, but far enough away from the heart so as not to feel like we were being carried along involuntarily by the blistering pace and verve which has long been part of the Tokyo DNA.

Shibuya's famous 'scramble' crossing

Neons, advertising and consumerism - a quintessential Tokyo sight

In essence, our Tokyo stay revolved around two things: sight seeing and reuniting with my host family. For me, meeting up with the Nagaiwa family after 10 long years was quite incredible and very rewarding. Fortunately for all of us, it felt like we’d never left each other’s sides as the flow of conversation was only bettered by the flow of green tea. My host Mum had prepared us a feast and managed to remember my penchant for all things sweet. Sitting around our family dinner table again, where I’d been 10 years earlier - before school, after school, on weekends learning and absorbing as much about Japan as I could possibly fit in - for the first time in my life I had a sense that time itself is really quite arbitrary. A man-made notion of varying meaning and accord - dependent upon the beholder. For Julia, the witness to our reunion, it was an eye opening experience to see how a Japanese family lived, ate and slept. She did a great job of enduring the encounter, smile plastered to her face - face hurting.

What a feast! Thanks very much Okasan (Mum)! Delicious!  

We've all grown up! 

Okasan and Otosan both look so young and healthy!

As far as sightseeing went, a few of the highlights included visiting a cat cafe. Before you ask, no we didn’t eat our feline friends, it’s simply a cafe where you can play with the in-house cats. An apt name, now that the explanation is out of the way. For Julia, it was some reward after much anticipation. For me it was two for the price of one. I was able to visit a cat cafe and also sit and observe my beautiful girlfriend, child-like, rid herself of social norms and frolic around the cafe forcing herself upon our feline friends.

Spot the cats. And Julia if you can find her?

A cat!

For me, another highlight was Tsukiji -  the largest fish market in the world. Over 2000 tonnes of fish are auctioned off daily. With such raw numbers, and fish for that matter, comes a near overwhelming assault on your senses. Walking around Tsukiji at a saunter, in stark contrast to the brisk pace of the shop keepers around us, I couldn’t help but feel like a fly on the wall. For the most part I witnessed the whole thing through my camera lens, trying to capture the countless moments which left me awe stuck, it was a sight to behold and a smell to forget.

So much fish. Fish everywhere!

Incredibly sharp knives!

As a reward for the battering our senses endured we joined a long queue for one of the most famed and revered sushi restaurants at the market, ergo the world. The long wait and frosty conditions didn’t disappoint. We were squeezed in, elbow to elbow, careful not to dislodge the wall hangings. I managed to get my knees under the table exchanging polite glances with my neighbouring patrons. With the chef a short breath away, knife in hand, we began to order what would prove to be one of the best meals of the trip. Quite simply it was the best sushi I’ve ever eaten bar none. The speed at which the chefs cut down a piece of fish into something that, once rested on your plate looked like a piece of art, was truly astounding. Such skill no doubt acquired after much dedication and commitment. Although incredibly busy and working very hard, not to mention with a knife as sharp as a sword, the chef still managed to take our orders and partake in some good quality banter. Interested by our trip, what we had eaten in Hokkaido (a place revered for its seafood) and also curious as to why I was speaking Japanese to him. After the long queue to get into the place, we left feeling like we had been seated in the chefs own kitchen with all the time in the world.

Simply WOWZA!

Food nay, art yes - actually both

At my insistence we squeezed in one final temple stop at Asakusa temple. For me Asakusa is a place I have fond memories of. Fond memories of time spent alone, times of reflection and plenty of time exploring the labyrinthine area. With a plethora of small stalls and eateries, I figured at the very least Julia and I would enjoy one final adventure if not the imposing temple itself. After paying our respects and jostling through the crowd we were stopped by a very cute and eager to learn group of young Japanese students on an English language excursion. With excellent pronunciation and some courage they approached us and asked a variety of questions - all in English. Julia and I, quite impressed and taken aback by their sheer courage, happily obliged and were rewarded with a cute paper crane made by the them also. Buoyed by our experience we stridently advanced towards the exit. That is until we were stopped again by another cute group of school kids. Laughing at the coincidence we again played along and were again impressed by their courage and confidence. We left, another paper crane the richer, and strategically tried to duck and weave so we didn’t get caught again, three times would be pushing it. You guessed it, a third group of kids bailed us up, keen to go through the whole question and answer game again. After completing our third lot of interrogation and worried that we would never leave the temple grounds, we clandestinely snuck around the back of the stalls and managed to get ourselves to relative safety! 

Asakusa temple

We made it out alive and sane!

It’s fair to say that the entire trip itself was as much a learning experience for Julia as it was for me. We experienced Japan in full winter flight. Ate some of the best food of our lives. Shared some of my favourite and most important company in the world and left with eyes and souls full of memories and new experiences. As I write this I can’t help but wonder when, not if, I will return to the country which I consider my second home.

Uh Snow Part 2

In Part 1 of our winters adventure I left both you and I at the ski slopes pondering.

A place to ponder...

I'd also detailed the other part of my dream chasing shenanigans. To visit an outdoor onsen in the snow - ideally with snowing falling. So, after convincing Julia that nothing could be worse than the toils she faced on the slopes, she agreed to join me. As you would expect she had the normal reservations around sharing a public bathhouse. That is to share a bath, in a foreign country, with complete strangers, completely nude.

However, bags packed and under good authority from a local, we headed off out of town to the 'best' outdoor onsen in the region. Our trip involved multiple buses, and narrow, windy roads completely covered white with snow. The road wasn't the only thing that was white as my knuckles turned white while I held on as we headed up the treacherous white mountain roads. If you're having trouble coming to grips, pun intended, with my excessive use of the word 'white' then don't read this: our bus was also full of white haired elderly Japanese men and woman all eager onsen goers themselves. They seemed to be as excited about the onsen as they were about the presence of us; two, young, foreigners, one of whom spoke Japanese. 

Note the height of the snow compared to the bus stop. It was so cold waiting for the bus we literally walked in circles for 20 minutes just to stay warm.

For our toils and at their insistence they gave us some sweets and chaperoned us for the remainder of the journey until we all arrived at the onsen. Alighting the bus, the snow was falling heavily and the distraction of the frightening but hilarious journey vanished as I realised that if we could get inside in time, while it was still snowing, my dream might just come true.

After a windy and scary bus ride we made it!

After one failed attempt upon realising we'd forgotten towels, we bid each other farewell and I wished Julia good luck. I raced in, washed myself thoroughly as is customary and made my way to the snow covered bathing area. Stark naked, I can attest that walking outside in the snow with temperatures well below minus 10 literally hurts you all over. In sensitive areas you never imagined would see such harsh conditions. I must have looked like Golum from Lord Of The Rings as I scampered around the edge of the rocks until I entered. 

Either the door to freezing cold or to steaming hot

The sheer pain of the bitter cold only sped me along as I experienced the inevitable, truly superlative feeling of submerging yourself into the natural and piping hot waters of the baths. I sat there and for the second time in a week simply felt like I was living the dream. With the snow falling around me, and on me too, my wet hair literally started to freeze which was ironically analogous to the awesome memories which I knew would be frozen into my mind and ones I'll never forget. But beyond the scope of my poor literary exploits, all I can say is put a winter onsen experience on the top of your list. 

One of the most superlative experiences of my life.

After a successful week at the snow fields Julia and I headed to Sapporo for the world famous snow festival. Many of you will know 'Sapporo' simply as an excellent Japanese beer.  But the snow festival has arguably the same level of acclaim as their popular beer. The snow festival was another (thanks again Julia) event that I'd been keen to see ever since my exchange in Japan. I also knew that Julia would love it too and was keen for her to experience the hype of a Japanese festival. 

Julia rugged up and looking like a Polish Grandma.

Isn't she beautiful! 

My jeans are now ass-less. At least the next person had some denim to sit on.

Bizarly none of the cars had chains. 

The simply stunning Sapporo Beer Factory.

Upon entering the 'ice bar,' Julia asks, genuinely, whether it will be warm inside. No Julia, it'll be freezing cold. Literally.

Sculptors from all over the world converge on the city to build ice and snow sculptures well over 10 metres high. The city itself is picturesque with a park that runs down the middle of the city. The park and it's excellent location provide an stunning back drop for the festival. Walking the length of the park at both day and night, marvelling  at the extreme skill of the artists it really was an awe inspiring event. One which pictures will do more justice than my words. 

This shot was taken at roughly 8:21. 

Over 15m high. Wow!

The ice festival is held along the picturesque park that runs through the middle of the city.

If the ice sculptures weren't enough proof then there, it was bloody bloody freezing!

Conveniently Sapporo is renowned for its miso ramen or Japanese noodle soup with a miso base. To negate the cruel wintery conditions we warmed ourselves aplenty with numerous helpings of the delicious soup. 

A whole street filled with ramen shops. A great anti-dote to the cold.

The most satisfying ramen I've ever had.

Sapporo, and broadly Hokkaido, is quite highly regarded throughout Japan as a gastronomic destination. Specifically their seafood is sublime and amongst the best in all of Japan. Geographically Hokkaido is surrounded by seas which are much less pillaged than in other areas, improving the quality of the seafood which is caught.  

With that in mind Julia and I headed off to their seafood market and bravely ordered a sushi platter for breakfast. We'd stumbled upon a 'nook and cranny' type sushi restaurant where there was only seating for 3 customers. Conveniently Julia had read about the restaurant somewhere but initially had no intention to go. As we'd merely stumbled upon it, we couldn't pass up the opportunity to try some of their famed seafood in such a unique setting. 

As you can imagine with only 3 customers and the chef standing directly in front of you preparing your food, banter was as plentiful as the large portions of glistening, perfectly prepared sushi. The kick of freshly grated wasabi root was as welcoming as the piping hot green tea we were offered too. We left, budget intact, having consumed some of the freshest most delectably simple yet mouth watering sushi we will ever have the chance to eat. Japan had done it again.

This sushi restaurant only serves 3 customers at a time!

Chef preparing the sushi directly in front of you.

What's that Julia, your feet are getting cold? Here, try these feet warmers.

Why thank you Jay.

Kyoto: Getting to the Heart of Japan

Youkoso. Jay and I have jet-setted off to Japan and we're so excited about this trip. Jay lived in Japan for 10 months when he did a school-exchange trip here 10 years ago and has been itching to return ever since. I've heard so many fun and quirky stories about it from Jay and have been just as eager to visit and experience it all for myself.

Our first stop was Kyoto, considered the cultural heart of Japan. Renowned for its vast amounts of temples, gardens, shrines, and (if you're lucky enough to see them) geisha, this was a wonderfully fitting and enriching introduction to Japan.

We stayed at a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn. The pictures and accompanying captions below detail what an incredibly unique and memorable stay it was.

The front of our ryokan, Kikokuso Lodging

 

Our room, complete with tatami-mat flooring, futon, shoji screens...

...and a beautiful sitting area overlooking a Japanese garden below.

Ready for our traditional Japanese breakfast...

...including rice, tofu, egg, miso soup, green tea and a variety of pickled vegetables. Not for the faint-hearted.

Jay and I wearing our yukata (casual summer kimono)

At the end of the day we bathed the traditional Japanese way. The bathing room contained a shower area where we cleansed ourselves with soap, rinsed ourselves off, and then hopped into the bath pictured above. It was the perfect way to wind down after each arduous day of walking around and exploring Kyoto.  

Staying at the ryokan was a truly special experience, and one which I highly recommend to anyone visiting Kyoto with the opportunity to do so.

Keen to get a true 'taste' of Kyoto, we visited the four hundred year-old Nishiki Market on our first day there. It's a bustling hub selling many of Kyoto's specialties, including - but certainly not limited to - vegetables, pickles, dried fish and a ridiculous variety of tofu (including tofu donuts. Before you ask, yes, they were delicious).

Nishiki Market

An assortment of vegetables commonly used in Japanese cuisine. Note that they are all individually packaged, including the carrots.

Tsukemono, pickled vegetables

Mochi, glutenised rice balls dipped in a sweet paste. Positively delicious.

Bonito fish, which is commonly shaved and served on top of vegetables or rice.

Fishy fish

More fishy fish

So much tea

With this being my first visit to Japan, and my first proper introduction to Japanese culture, I've obviously learnt a lot over my initial few days here. I'll now share some of my new-found pieces of wisdom with you:

1. Shoes. You have to change them, a lot. And it's not just about taking them off when you enter a house (or in our case, a ryokan). Once inside, there will be a pair of slippers you put on to walk around the residence in. If there are tatami mats in a room, you will have to take off the slippers before entering it*. And in some cases, there will be another pair of slippers you will have to change into when entering a bathroom. So far the most amount of shoe/slipper changes in one location have happened at a temple we visited: there were 4.

2. Vending machines. You can buy warm drinks from them. I don't mean ones where you buy a cup, put it onto a tray, and hot liquid pours into it; I've seen those ones often enough. The ones I'm talking about here look like you're purchasing an ordinary plastic bottle of drink. Except that when you open it, steam comes out of it because it actually contains a heated beverage. Wowzas.

3. Free tastings are commonly offered in food stores. For example, in the image pictured below, green tea was offered to prospective customers upon entry to the shop. And it wasn't just a token small portion that would otherwise leave you craving for more. Instead, it was a proper, real-world serving of tea. But it didn't finish there. Once inside the store, tastings were available for most of the varieties of sweets sold there. As with the green tea tastings, these were generous sized servings, to the point that we left the store quite full. So technically, if you wanted to be super stingy, you could just visit a few shops and fill yourself up on the variety of tastings in them. I'm still getting over how amazing this is.

4. Traffic light sounds. Some chirp like birds when they turn green.

5. Toilets. Buttons like the ones pictured below are on the sides of some toilets. I haven't been game enough to press any of them yet, but who knows what will happen over my next couple of weeks here.

There's just so much to say about Kyoto that I couldn't possibly fit it all into one blog without overwhelming you. So stay tuned to hear about more of our Kyotan adventures.

Arigato gozaimasu.

* confession: I've forgotten to do so at times