As the most popular
tourist destination on the planet, I was surprised at my own feelings
of apathy at the prospect of visiting France. Acutely aware that some
80 million other tourists must be onto something, I banished my
indifference and entered with arms and eyes wide open. But most
especially I prepared my stomach for what could be the defining
moment in our gastronomic journey!
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Our daily ritual! |
Fittingly
for Julia and I, the first place we visited was Lyon – the
gastronomic capital of France. Despite some notable tourist
attractions, we genuinely were there for the food, much to the
delight of the locals we spoke to who pride themselves on their
renowned gastronomy. After doing some research into where to blow our
backpacker budget away, we were left severely underwhelmed and
decided to hit the streets for some local insight. We quickly worked
up an appetite and stumbled across an unassuming pâtisserie,
hindsight would later prove it to be the best pâtisserie
we visited in all of France. An energetic and friendly young lady
served us and conveniently spoke a little English. Combined with
little French we managed to secure the name of a local eatery,
bouchon,
which she thoroughly
recommended. For the remaining hours we were forced, agonisingly to
wait for our fateful appointment with French cuisine at its finest.
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France easily produces the best baked goods and pastries in the world! |
Arriving
in the finest threads our backpacks allowed, we were greeted by a
genial and enthusiastic host. Unable to contain our excitement, we
fumbled around for the menu and were surprised when the waiter
declared that there was no menu – that he was the menu. He
proceeded to sit down at our table and in, at best, broken English
describe what was available. I should mention he did this for every
single table for the remainder of the night. All amused at the mutual
lack of understanding, the waiter headed for the kitchen and we began
to discuss what we thought we had ordered. As we waited for the food,
the smells emanating from the kitchen reminded us of our near total
ignorance of what we had ordered, yet they seductively comforted any
misgivings. To our delight, our entrée arrived and we were excited
to see the chef straddling the kitchen and restaurant doorway in
order to witness our reactions. He must have been quietly confident
as the food, service, ambience and dining experience was quite truly
incredible. Easily one of the best meals of our lives.
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Escargots - bon appetit! |
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Tasted much better than it looks! |
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Saucisson brioche, or less eloquently put, sausage in bread |
Julia
and I have an uncanny, albeit convenient, knack of arriving in towns
and countries during large and significant cultural events. So
arriving in Marseilles we were surprised/not really to find out that
their famous and annual
'Fête
du Panier' street
festival was on. People would ask us, “Oh you have come for the
festival, no?,” to which we most often replied, “of course, we
are so excited!” Situated in the old town, the festival sees people
open their doors and fashion small stalls where they sell home made
food and alcoholic mixtures. An OH&S nightmare, but a
dream come true for frugal backpackers. For little more $1 we
consumed lots of beer, punch of varying quality, liver skewers and
crepes prepared by children. More than just a chance for austerity
hit Europeans to make some extra cash, each town square also hosts a
free music festival. A fully professional outfit with some allegedly
big names performing too. What's a good night without some football I
hear you say? Well France happened to be playing in the European
championship that evening too, so the night was intermittently broken
up into football viewing too!
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'Punch,' or punch in English! |
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Genuinely OH&S worst nightmare |
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One of the many concerts strewn across this small part of town! |
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The famed 'Fete du Panier' |
Aside
from food, another reason Julia wanted to visit France was for Le
Tour de France. The pinnacle of bike racing and endurance sport. Also
the race was won by an Australian, Cadel Evans last year. Luckily for
Julia we would be witnessing four stages. Two of which bought us to
the small town Pau, just outside the Pyrnees - a famous and harsh
mountain range that straddles the border of France and Spain. Luckily
for Julia, I was also desperately keen to see the race in person as
for many years I have spent countless hours and many sleepless nights
watching the SBS coverage from Australia. Standing on the side of the
road, the excitement all around is palpable. Free promotional goodies
are literally thrown into the masses, often resulting in skirmishes
for the hurled goods and children weeping at missing out on something
that their sibling got. With patriots waving flags and cycling
enthusiasts craning their necks around in anticipation of the
psychedelic glow of the oncoming peloton, the atmosphere was
electric! The sheer logistics of the event; road closures, settling
up grandstands and not to mention a mini athletes village in each
town, everyday for three weeks are quite impressive. Needles to say
as an avid cycling fan, witnessing the event in in person was quite a
big deal for me and really something to tick of my bucket list!
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Wiggins in the zone before the start of the stage |
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Excitement at the finish!! |
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World Champion, Mark Cavendish blazing past! |
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Absolutely bursting with freebies from the Tour, merci beaucoup! |
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Despite their rugged looks, I witnessed these guys crying as we waited for the race...On account of some ridiculously hot French mustard!!! |
Fittingly
our final stop in France was it's most famous city Paris. A
polarising city depending on who you talk to, we were lucky enough to
have a small one bedroom apartment. We were also lucky to be sharing
the apartment with a friend from Australia, Tom. Located outside the
city centre we seamlessly slotted into local life. Heading to the
unrivalled pâtisseries to buy fresh baguettes
and crossaints. Stopping by
the shops to buy is-this-shit-fo-real delicious camembert cheese and
stumbling upon one of the best wines in all of Europe for a princely
$2.50. From the outside looking in we probably looked
quintessentially French. As soon as we opened our mouths and
butchered the language we were clearly foreigners. Regardless, Paris
is a truly special city. Despite its inherent touristy drawbacks it's
big enough to escape the masses, allowing yourself to be mesmerised
by its majestic and varied offerings.
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Bursting with excitement at the final of le Tour de France |
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Yummy, delicious, absolutely scrumptious French sweets |
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Jump if you adore Paris! |
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Parlez vous Francais? |
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The city of love - Thomas hearts Julia! |
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Bonjour from the summit of le Tour Eiffel |
After
ticking off most of the touristy sights, Tom decided to spoil us and
had arranged a day of, out-of-the-ordinary, Paris tourist sights. So
we quickly found our selves watching pornography at the erotic
museum. Tom said the weirdest thing for him was the fact that he was
watching pornography with somebody else and standing up too. He said
he usually watches it alone, seated on a computer chair. Shortly
after this sexual enlightenment we made our way to the vampire
museum. We were picked up at the station by an immediately obviously
eccentric man who walked us to his house, the museum. We were sat in
a small room full of vampire memorabilia and for the next two hours,
indoctrinated in all things vampire from folklore to modern
representations. Far from weirded out, Tom and I were genuinely
intrigued and chatting with such a passionate and knowledgeable man
made the whole experience at once amusing, insightful and just plain
fantastic!
But
the whole day was topped off when Tom took us to a restaurant where
you eat the entire meal in the pitch black dark. You are served by
legally blind waiters and the food served varies in texture,
temperature and taste. Overall the meal itself was quite good but the
experience of essentially (although temporarily) losing your sense of
sight was quite unique and incredible. For me, each mouthful of food
was filled not only with food, but immense apprehension. Where is the
plate? Is this a knife? What is this? Have I just dropped it? I don't
know! After getting over the bizarre sensation and bouts of anxiety I
began to have some fun. Stealing Tom and Julia's cutlery. Smearing
ice cream on Tom's supple skin. After starting the day watching
pornography and being exposed to bizarre sexual fantasies and
fetishes, it was as if the whole day had done a complete u-turn as we
frolicked and flirted in this intimate and romantic Parisian setting.
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Is it a bird....is it a plane....? |
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....no it's an incredibly big crowd visiting Mona! |
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So sparkly!! |
Hi Travellers, After all your culinary experiences we are getting extremely nervous about feeding you when you finally get home. We are not talking football this week. The only good thing is Carlton were beaten by Gold Coast. All well here, Erin & Rob to dinner tonight. Have been baby sitting Coco for 4 days while Erin ,Rob & Liam were at the snow. Love always Nan & Pa XxXx
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